The clear, blue sea

Dubrovnik, Croatia, June 14, 2010

After four sun-soaked—and burned—days, we are leaving Dubrovnik, Croatia, tomorrow for Spain. The Adriatic really is as blue and beautiful as all of the photos make it look. We spent two days on Lokrum island, a short ferry ride away. To call it a beach is not quite right—we lounged on large rocks on the seaside, not sand, but that gives you the chance to drop down into water that is clear for as far as you can see. Yesterday, we hit Lopud which was a 40 minute boat ride away and has a sandy beach. Sand is nice, but we prefer the rocks – the sound of the waves breaking on them is so relaxing, plus when you get out of the sea you don’t have to deal with all that sand sticking to you. Wow, tough choices, right?

If nothing else, seeing people young and old wear skimpy swimsuits, or none at all, has gotten me out of my Quaker-style bathing suit and into something a bit more acceptable for the Mediterranean. Honestly, the first couple of days I was at the beach I felt like I was wearing a burka compared to everyone else. We did have to come up with a “naked old guy” alert as that was something that neither of us was comfortable with—me for obvious reasons and Tom because he didn’t want to confront the future quite yet.

The Old Town of Dubrovnik really is a charming place, with lots of tiny streets and alleys twisting and climbing up and down. As we wandered around, we got plenty of views of hidden courtyards and rooftop patios. There are lots of little shops and restaurants, too, some tucked so far away that you wonder how anybody finds them. Much like Zagreb, the squares and streets are packed with people at all hours.

When we were in Zagreb we asked the hotel clerk, Davor, about it and he laughed—apparently he gets the question all the time: Why are cafes and bars bustling all day long, don’t people have to work? His answer, it’s just our way of life. Yes, we work, he said, but a day off is spent meeting friends for coffee, which can then turn into an evening of drinks and talk. Not a bad way of life in our book.

Getting back to Dubrovnik, the apartment we’re staying in isn’t in Old Town, but a 10 minute walk away. Not so bad time-wise, but the trip did involve lots and lots of stairs. Going down wasn’t a big deal, but heading up at the end of the night is a killer. But the elevation gain does afford a very nice view of Old Town, its harbor and Lokrum island.